1982 Port Ellen

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Port Ellen 27 yo 1982/2010 (61,3%, Wilson & Morgan Barrel Selection, cask #2347)  Colour: pale gold. Nose: it seems that this one’s rather rounder than the Old Bothwell, a tad more buttery and with a little more vanilla, which suggests more active wood. Nice notes of riesling or sauvignon blanc (‘barrelled!’) Becomes a little violent after a while, at such high strength! Let’s not burn our noses… With water: it’s as if water erased the wood’s influence as this one is now much closer to the Old Bothwell, that is to say very tarry. It’s still a tad rounder, but I like it a lot. A little camphor and eucalyptus as well. Mouth (neat): once again, it’s a sweeter and rounder version although it’s no sweet and round whisky of course. Big leafiness, chlorophyll, grass… It’s extremely powerful but sort of drinkable – or is it me? With water: now it’s perfect! Finish: long, salty… Anchovies and sardines in the aftertaste, which I like. Comments: great, just great, even if it takes its time and really needs water. At 61+%, no wonder! I scored it 90 at the MM Awards but after due comparison with some siblings, now I believe it’s worth 91. Yeah, splitting hairs. Well done Signor Rossi. SGP:347 - 91 points.

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