絕版黑蛇PORT ELLEN

Port Ellen 21 yo 1983/2004 (62.7%, Blackadder Raw Cask, sherry butt #2734, 563 bottles) There’s a misprint somewhere as this one was distilled in November ’83 and bottled in August ’04, so either it’s only 20 years old, or some date is wrong. No big deal, as long as it’s good. Colour: pale amber. Nose: hey, this is very nice too! More marked by the cask, obviously (I get quite some caramel, vanilla, roasted nuts, maple syrup) but Port Ellen’s character easily shines through. Maybe peatier and wilder than the new Signatory and also a little less clean. But let’s not take chances with our nose and add quite some water now. Oh yes, that worked but differently when compared with the Signatory. It got much more on lapsang souchong tea, toasted brioche, figs and huge notes of cloves. The peat got sort of pushed away, which is quite amusing here. Whiffs of good quality arrack – yes. Mouth (neat): again a great attack, on dry sherry and big bold peat. Faint hints of sulphur/rubber this time but nothing embarrassing. Superb resin and quite some salt again, but water is needed. With water: excellent, a rather perfect assortment of candied fruits and pastries on one side and resinous and smoky ‘elements’ on the other side. Not that they don’t mingle well, quite the contrary in fact. Very good. Finish: long, more candied and almost honeyed now, with quite some eraly grey tea in the background. Funnily, the second part of the finish is rather grassy and earthy/leafy. Good, long development in this one, even if it hasn’t got the 1982’s almost supernatural high class. 92 points (and thanks, Konstantin).

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