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TASTING – WHISKYLIVE: DIAGEO’S MASTERCLASS, PART TWO

Brora 30 yo 2004 Edition (56.6%, OB) This is the third batch, and I’ve heard there will be a 4th one in 2005. Not sure about the following years, though… Colour: pure gold. Nose: smoke, peat and some very bold animal notes: amazing! Imagine you visit a farm, with its dogs, the cow stable, a bonfire somewhere in the courtyard… It then gets very waxy and superbly yeasty like Poilâne’s bread… Absolutely stunning. I had thought they would have put the best casks into the first edition(s), but this one proves I was wrong. It then gets quite tary, with some diesel oil. Yet, it’s more refined than the first two editions, and less brutal.

Mouth: surprisingly sweet, creamy, and almost un-peaty at first sip, but like in the very best Ardbegs, the smoke and the peat then develop into a magnificent continuum, even if the whisky remains always refined and subtle. It then gets very lemony and tary again, on green lemon, lemon grass… The finish is very long, on a perfect cocktail of smoky lemon juice with pepper. What a fantastic presence, deserving no less than 95 points in my book (but Olivier, who’s a little less shy than me with his ratings, gave it 97 points). Now, as I already told you, the problem is that this Brora is a killer, as it sort of damaged both the Caol Ila 25 yo and the Talisker 25 yo that were to follow…

Brora 30 yo (52.9%, The Whisky Exchange, 2011) Colour: gold. Nose: it’s not one of thoses Broras that hit you right between the eyes, in fact it’s more akin to an old Caol Ila at first nosing, although this baby would be rather sootier and ‘straight smoky’. Then whiffs of burning hay, touches of manure (Brora’s trademark farmy side), and then hints of kumquats and grapefruits. Maybe ripe kiwis, vanilla custard. Surprisingly delicate and kind of gentlemanly, so to speak, without the yeasty side that could be found in some older indie 1981s, for example. With water: yes, camphor, lemon grass, eucalyptus, smoked tea and just distant whiffs of wet dogs (I’m sorry, dogs).

Mouth (neat): now it really screams ‘Brora!’ Wilder, farmier, peatier, with this slight acridness that’s so pleasant (to us Brora fans, at least). I’ve read it was ‘milder’, but I don’t think it really is. In fact it’s quite close to last year’s official 30 at this point. With water: the citrusy side comes out even more, together with some green tea, almonds and various herbs, while the smokiness got rather more discreet. Finish: long, on… Brora. I know, that was easy but it’s true. Slight saltiness, putty. Comments: lovable whisky, as expected. SGP:455 - 92 points.

Girvan 48 yo 1964/2012 (49.5%, The Whisky Agency and The Whisky Exchange, sherry butt, 487 bottles) A Germanobritt joint bottling. Colour: amber. Nose: well, no whisky, rum. It’s true that very old spirits (whisky, cognac, rum…) tend to converge but indeed, this really smells like some old rum of very fine quality. Touches of pencil shavings, raisins, bananas flambéed, vanilla, coconut, café latte, oak smoke, Demerara sugar… well, Demerara indeed! Really curious about the palate, it should be less ‘rummy’…. Mouth: ho-ho, it’s less rummy for sure but rummy it remains. High mentholated extraction, sugar cane (rather rum agricole), liquorice, bags of raisins, angelica, Cointreau and very sweet coffee. The whole is warming and pretty creamy, it’s even got something ‘Bailey’ (please do not shoot!) After ten minutes: more ‘arranged rum – rather toward pineapple in rum. As always, it’s also got something slightly bourbony. Finish: long and spicier, as expected. White pepper, ginger and cloves, with an aftertaste that makes me think of Compass Box’ Orangerie. That’s funny! Comments: a lovely concoction, greatly both rummy and liqueury, eminently drinkable. No ideas as for the price but if it’s fair and if you haven’t got any old grain in the house, well, I know what I would do. SGP:642 - 90 points.
UPDATE: our friend Stijn tells us that the price is around 220€. That's quite fair for a 48yo whisky, isn't it.

Isle of Jura 24 yo 1988/2012 (50.8%, The Whisky Agency & Bresser & Timmer, bourbon barrel, 251 bottles) Colour: straw. Nose: ho-ho, there’s some peat smoke in there! Fresher and closer to the barley than the OBs, smokier (I insist), mentholated and very coastal. So seashells and ‘clean’ mud, seaweed, leather and bags of apple peelings. I wouldn’t say it’s a surprise but what a brilliant nose! With water: linseed oil galore, motor oil, new car (interior) and waxed papers. What’s not to like? Mouth (neat): perfect. Rich, creamy, fruity (grapefruits), perfectly sappy, salty, resinous… I think it’s terrific. Again, not a surprise, but… With water: wouldn’t this rather be a Clynelish 1983? Can I have a picture of the barrel’s head, first thing tomorrow morning? ;-). Finish: long and very salty. Smoky, waxy and resinous aftertaste. Comments: my kind, punto basta. Magic. SGP:363 - 92 points.

Glenfarclas 40 yo 1971 (52%, OB Family Cask for Silver Seal 2011, cask #148, 473 btl.)

Nose: starts pretty compact with precious wood and dried fruits. Grows wider: Banyuls and Portuguese ginjha. Dates, figs, rum-soaked raisins. Some dry wood smoke and walnuts. Hints of beef stock. Some cardamom. Quite heavy overall, but more complex than most other heavily sherried whiskies. Mouth: rich, with sweet, herbal and softly sour flavours. Cherry pie, prunes, raisins, figs, Christmas cake. Strawberry jam and milk chocolate. Hints of gingerbread and liquorice, but it’s nicely un-oaky. Classic. Finish: long, spicier and drier, but still a lot of dried fruits.

Nicely sweet & sour without showing too much wood or bitterness alongside it. A classic example of Glenfarclas’ heritage. At around € 475, I’d say the standard 40yo is better value though.

Score: 92/100

Tomatin 36 yo 1976 (50,7%, Maltbarn 2012, sherry butt, 102 btl.)

Nose: it seems a slightly less fruity Tomatin, with rather more herbal notes (sage, mint, dill, chamomile). Lots of honey. Maybe more oaky than some previous casks as well. Gingery. In the background: plum jam, banana and red berries. Soft sherry. Mouth: beautifully fruity. It could be mistaken for a good BenRiach 1976, with its mango, melon and truckloads of pink grapefruit. Pleasant soft oak and herbal notes towards the end. Finish: herbs and fruits trade places, bringing along a slight resinous dryness of the wood.

Very good Tomatin with a surprisingly fresh fruitiness on the palate. Maybe not the most expressive / fruity nose though. Around € 250, sold out.

Score: 90/100