山崎原酒 重雪利 W Whisky Shop

Yamazaki 2003/2014 (55%, OB, for the Whisky Shop, Spanish oak bota corta, cask #ADDY3038) Four stars and a half There, a proper vintage. Colour: mahogany. Nose: starts with this feeling of ‘sherried bourbon wood’ that’s sometimes to be seen in modern sherried malts, which suggests it was bespoke sherry-treated new oak. Now who would be against all these smoked prunes? Add burnt honey, Demerara sugar, actually old high-proof Demerara rum (Port Mourant), and orange peels and you’ve got… this. We’re far from the ‘Age Unknown’ as far as complexity is concerned, but it works. With water: soy sauce, tobacco, and lovage. Nice. Excuse me? Yes, and umami. Mouth (neat): some massive, oaky, slightly sour (tamarind, red currants) arrival, extremely thick and ‘extracted’, perhaps a little difficult. Huge bags of cloves and these tannins that are ‘sticking your tongue and your palate together’. This is extreme indeed, one could think of the wildest batches of Glenfarclas’ famous ‘105’. With water: what’s better is that it swims like a champ, becoming beautifully chocolaty and liquoricy. Bitter oranges. It’s not that it became ‘complex’, but it’s very fulfilling. Finish: long, balanced, on tobacco and chocolate. Thin mints in the aftertaste. Comments: I like it actually much better than the ‘Sherry 2009’, even if styles are similar. SGP:561 - 88 points.

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