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以上都報  老東西不等人 SERGE高分款 Ardbeg 'Uigeadail' (54.2%, OB, +/-2013)  No I haven't got any laser codes or whatnot, but this one is recent for sure. The latest version I've tried was bottled circa 2010 and I loved it (WF 92). Colour: gold. Nose: it's not complicated, and I guess there's less super-old Ardbeg than in earlier batches anyway, but balance was found, with some straight smoke (exhaust) and then a combo of vanilla fudge, custard and lemon curd. A little wet paint as well, some leather and just a little tobacco. Maybe it's narrower than the first Uigeadails but so far, so good. And I enjoy these black olives that come out after ten minutes. With water: swims perfectly. Putty, almonds, seashells... Mouth (neat): it's perfect. Simple, but perfect. Impressive mouth feel. Lemon zests, bitter herbs, tar, brine and liquorice. It's certainly less rich and opulent than the first Uigeadails from ten years ago, but I'm not sure it's lost anything. I enjoy this more chiselled style. With water: smoother, with some orange blossom honey, but the tarry and liquoricy side remains big. Also kumquats and bergamots. Finish: long, with even more tar and smoke. Comments: by far my favourite current/recent official Ardbeg. I think the styles change a bit, but quality remains evenly high, if I may say so. SGP:458 - 92 points.
  Ardbeg 'Uigeadail' (54.2%, OB, 2010)  I won’t elaborate on this bottling, there are some much better exegetes of Ardbeg than yours truly. What’s sure is that recent batches have proven much more polarising than the smashing 2003/2004 editions – but not here. Not sure they still make them in the same way as they originally did (with quite a few casks from the 1970s thrown in). Colour: full gold. Nose: no peat blast, rather whiffs of Demerara rum and other sweet notes. Vanilla fudge, light toffee, caramel and then quite a lot of leather and mushrooms. Humus and compost. Really unfolds over time, even without water. With water: brilliant. Rubber boots, tarmac and heating oil. Mouth (neat): rich, candied attack, all on Seville oranges and barley sugar, coated with tar and liquorice plus a dash of Himalayan salt (please drop the Himalyan part, it doesn’t make any sense – or not much). This is big whisky. With water: perfect. Salty, peaty, rooty, tarry… Rougher and ‘younger’ than on the nose for sure but still wonderful. Finish: long, with now notes of figs and dates, probably from sherry. Quite some cough syrup too. Comments: I don’t know how they do this. Originally, they DID add quite a lot of old sherry casks but do they really still do that? Do they have a secret trick? What’s sure is that it does taste like some rich ‘old style’ Ardbeg, and that it’s probably just as exhilarating as the first batches. SGP:468 - 92 points.

近年份  分數就低了 Ardbeg 'Uigeadail' (54.2%, OB, +/-2017)  Ah Uigeadail! Used to be glorious when they were still adding old casks and good sherry, and in my book, it was still glorious around 2013 (WF 92). Let’s see if anything changed… Colour: pale gold. Uigie is getting paler and paler… Nose: it’s probably narrower than its older bros and sisters, and rather less expressive, perhaps less ‘black’, perhaps peatier, and certainly less sherried. There’s still this feeling of bacon infused in lapsang souchong, though… With water: tarry ropes. That’s very Ardbeg. Mouth (neat): there’s been some modernisation happening, once again, as the oak feels more, with its cortege of spices (always the same culprits, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom)… The rest remains really nice, although some complexity may have been lost along the years. More lapsang than smoked fish and camphor, if you see what I mean. With water: same feeling, but bigger. A little bitter oak, and a little more chocolate, which is very Uigeadail indeed. Finish: rather medium, which is surprising. Liquorice and salted lemon juice in the aftertaste. Comments: fewer subtleties, but this famous expression is still a lovely peater. Just not a glorious one that stands out anymore. SGP:457 - 86 points.

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